STARN: Scots Teaching and Resource Network
Journal of a Lady of Quality
Antigua and St. Christopher
St John's Decr 12th 1774.
I write now on land, but my head is so giddy, that I can't believe I am yet on shore, nor can I stand more than I did on Shipboard; every thing seems to move in the same manner it did there. They tell me however, I will get the better of this in twenty four hours.
My brother came on board this morning with some Gentlemen and carried us ashore. Every thing was as new to me, as if I had been but a day old. We landed on a very fine Wharf belonging to a Scotch Gentleman who was with us. We proceeded to our lodgings thro' a narrow lane; as the Gentleman told us no ladies ever walk in this Country. Just as we got into the lane, a number of pigs run out at a door, and after them a parcel of monkeys. This not a little surprized me, but I found what I took for monkeys were negro children, naked as they were born. We now arrived at our lodgings, and were received by a well behaved gentle-woman, who welcomed us, not as the Mrs of a hotel, but as the hospital woman of fashion would the guests she was happy to see. Her hall or parlour was directly off the Street. tho' not fine, it was neat and cool, and the windows all thrown open. A Negro girl presented us with a glass of what they call Sangarie,* which is composed of Madeira, water,....
* Sangaree was a tropical drink, known also to the people of the Carolinas. There were other combinations than that mentioned by Miss Schaw, but the ingredients were always liquor, water, and spices. Brandy was sometimes substituted for wine.
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....sugar and lime juice, a most refreshing drink. She had with her two Ladies, the one a good plain looking girl, who I soon discovered was her Niece; but it was sometime before I could make out the other. The old Lady* told us, she had been married to a Scotsman, whose memory was so dear to her, that she loved his whole country. She paid us some very genteel compliments, and with great seeming sincerity, expressed the joy it gave her to have us in her house. She was much prepossessed in my brother's favour, who was now going out with many of the people in office. "I know," said she, "every body will love you, and that I will be able to keep you but a very little while, but I beg that you will let this be your head quarters, while on the Island." The good Lady said a great deal, but so much benevolence appeared in every look, that I am induced to believe her sincere. I shall be sorry if she is not, for I am already greatly pleased with her.
It was sometime before I was able to make out who the other Lady was, whom we found with Mrs Dunbar, for so she is called. The loveliness of her person, her youth and the modesty of her manners, together with the respect she paid the Old Lady, made me at first take her for her daughter, but I soon discovered that her husband was a member of the Council, and that she waited his return from the Council-board, to carry her to her house, a few miles up the country. There was something in this young Lady so engaging, that it....
*The "old lady" was Mrs Dunbar, she was also the doctor's wife. There was no relationship between them. Dr. John Dunbar (born 1721), member of the assembly until 1775, graduated at Leyden University in 1742, and married, in Antigua, Eleanor, daughter of Thomas Watkins, who died during the hurricane of August 31, 1772. He married again, July 28, 1773, at St. John's, Sarah Warner, daughter of Samuel I I, Warner, deputy provost marshal of the island, a woman much younger than himself, who, however, died before he did, in 1787. The Dunbar plantation of 165 acres was in the Dickinson Bay division, from which the doctor was returned to the assembly.
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.... is impossible not to wish to know her better. Fanny and she appeared mutually pleased with each other. At last I fortunately discovered her to be the wife of my old friend Dr Dunbar, with whom I had been well acquainted in Scotland, and who had resided many months at my father's house. We were now much pleased with our Company. Our Landlady gave us an excellent dinner, at which we had one guest more, a Capt Blair,* a very agreeable genteel young man. My brother did not return, but our young men made up for the long Lent they had kept,# and Mrs Dunbar is charmed with them. I believe they have got into quarters.
Our dinner consisted of many dishes made up of kid, lamb, poultry, pork and a variety of fishes, all of one shape, that is flat, of the flounder or turbot kind, but differing from each other in taste. The meat was well dressed, and tho' they have no butter but what comes from Ireland or Britain, it was sweet and even fresh by their cookery. There was no turtle, which she regretted, but said I would get so much, that I would be surfeited with it. Our desert was superior to our dinner, the finest fruits in the World being there, which we had in profusion. During dinner, our hostess who presided at the head of her table, (very unlike a British Landlady) gave her hob and nob+ with a good grace. I observed the young Ladies drank nothing but Lime-juice and water. They told me it was all the women drank in general. Our good landlady strongly advised us not to follow so bad an example-that Madeira and water would do no body harm, and that it was owing to their method of living, that....
*Capt James Blair may have been an officer of the Royal American battalion, but his name cannot be found in any of the printed or manuscript army lists.
#The two boys must have found the greater part of the seven weeks' voyage a veritable Lent.
+"Hob and nob" was to drink to the health of the company present. At many colonial dinners it was the custom for the host to drink a glass of wine with everyone at the table.
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.... they were such spiritless and indolent creatures. The ladies smiling replied that the men indeed said so, but it was custom and every body did it in spite of the advices they were daily getting. What a tyrant is custom m every part of the world. The poor women, whose spirits must be worn out by heat and constant perspiration, require no doubt some restorative, yet as it is not the custom, they will faint under it rather than trangress this ideal law. I will however follow our good Landlady's advice, and as I was resolved to show I was to be a rebel to a custom that did not appear founded on reason. I pledged her in a bumper of the best Madeira I ever tasted. Mrs Rutherford followed my example; the old Lady was transported with us, and young Mrs Dunbar politely said, that if it was in the power of wine to give her such spirits, and render her half so agreeable, she was sorry she had not taken it long ago; but would lose no more time, and taking up a glass mixed indeed with water, drank to us.
Just as we were preparing for Tea, my brother, Dr Dunbar, Mr Halliday,* the Collector, and Mr Baird, the comp-troller, and a very pretty young man called Martin came to us. Here was a whole company of Scotch people, our language, our manners, our circle of friends and connections, all the same. They had a hundred questions to ask in a breath, and my general acquaintance enabled me to answer them....
*The Halliday family is of old covenanting stock and has figured in the history of Scotland, county Galloway, since the sixteenth century. John Halliday, the collector, was born in Antigua a nephew of William Dunbar and a son-in-law of Francis Delap, both prominent residents of the island. He himself had no less than seven plantations in the different divisions, the two most important of which were "Boons" in St. John's parish and "Weatherills" near by. He entered the assembly in 1755, resigned in 1757, and was again returned in 1761. He occupied the position of customs collector and receiver of the four and a half per cent export duty from 1739 to 1777, an office of importance, as the port of St. John's was much superior to its only rival in the island, Parham.
Of Charles Baird the comptroller, we can give no information beyond that which Miss Schaw furnishes, though his name is to be found in the official list of customs officials and in Governor Payne's "Answers to Queries."
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....We were intimates in a moment. The old Doctor was transported at seeing us, and presently joined his Lady in a most friendly invitation to stay at his house, which we have promised to do, as soon as we get our things ashore. The Collector has made the same request, and we are to be at his country-seat in a day or two. Mr Halliday is from Galloway, is a man above fifty, but extremely genteel in his person and most agreeable in his manners; he has a very great fortune and lives with elegance and taste. His family resides in England and he lives the life of a Batchelor. Mr Baird is a near relation of the Newbeath family, is above sixty, far from handsome, but appears to be a most excellent creature. I should suppose his connection had rather been with Mrs Baird, he has so much of her manner, her very way of speaking. 'Tis my opinion a mutual passion is begun between him and me, which, as it is not raised on beauty, it is to be hoped will be lasting. Young Martin, our hostess, who is very frank, tells its, is a favourite of the Collector's; that he stays always with him, and that it is supposed he intends to resign in his favour. She moreover informed us, that Mr Martin was much admired by the Ladies, but was very hard-hearted.*
* Samuel Martin, the "young Martin" here mentioned, was not a son of Colonel Samuel. though he may have been in some way related to him. That there was some family connection seems from an agreement entered into in 1775, whereby young Samuel bound himself to pay annuities to certain members of the Martin family (Oliver, History of Antigua, 11, 245). At this time he may have been twenty or more years of age, and, as Miss Schaw thought would be the case, he succeeded Halliday as collector two years later, serving until 1795, when he was retired. He was followed by Josiah, Colonel Samuel's grandson, who held the office for half a century.
For a women hater, young Samuel had an interesting matrimonial career. In 1777, the year he was appointed collector, he married Grace Savage, daughter of George Savage of "Savage Gardens" just outside St. John's. and by her had six children. She died, aged 50, in 1810, and in 1812 he married again, a widow, name unknown, by whom he had five children more. Thus he had two wives and eleven children which is a little unexpected. in view of Miss Schaw's remarks. He died soon after 1825, in England, whither he had gone after leaving the collectorship.
Young Martin's plantation in Antigua was called "High Point" and lay in the northern part of the island, between Winthrop's Bay and Dutchman's Bay near the entrance to Parham Harbor. He left this plantation to William, born in 1816, his second son by his second wife.
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.... Tea being finished, the Dr and his Lady left us, and we surprised the Gentlemen, by proposing a walk out of town.
This was at first opposed, but on our persisting, Mr Baird swore we were the finest creatures he had met these twenty years. "Zounds," said he, taking my arm under his, "I shall fancy myself in Scotland." Our walk turned out charmingly, the evening had now been cooled by the sea breeze, and we were not the least incommoded. We walked thro' a market place, the principal streets, and passed by a large church, and thro' a noble burying place. Here we read many Scotch names, among others, that of poor Jock Trumble* of Curry, who died while here with his regiment. A little above the town is the new Barracks, a long large building. in the middle of a field. I do not think its situation, however , so pretty as that of the old Barracks. A little beyond that we met a plantation belonging to a Lady, who is just now in England; from her character I much regret her a absence, for by all accounts, she is the very soul of whim, a much improved copy of Maria Buchanan, Mrs 0, whose stile, you know, I doated on; her house, for she is a widow, is superb, laid out with groves, gardens and delightful walks of Tamarind trees, which give the finest shade you can imagine.#
Here I had an opportunity of seeing and admiring the Palmetto tree with which this Lady's house is surrounded, and entirely guarded by them from the intense heat. They are in general from forty to sixty feet high before they put out a branch, and as straight as a line. If I may compare great....
*The "Jock Trumble" here mentioned was probably Lieutenant John Turnbull of the 68th Regiment of Foot, who died in Antigua, October 5, 1767, and was buried on the island. The name "Trumbull" is but a corrupted form of the Scottish "Turnbull," and Scotsmen tell us that the name today is frequently spelled "Turnbull" and pronounced "Trumbull."
# The plantation described is Skerretts alias Nugents, situated about a mile along the road past the barracks.
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.... things with small, the branches resemble a fern leaf, but are at least twelve or fifteen feet long. They go round the boll of the tree and hang down in the form of an Umbrela; the great stem is white, and the skin like Satin. Above the branches rises another stem, of about twelve or fourteen feet in height, coming to a point at the top, from which the cabbage springs, tho' the pith or heart of the whole is soft and eats well. This stem is the most beautiful green that you can conceive, and is a fine contrast to the white Boll below. The beauty and figure of this tree, however, rather surprised than pleased me. It had a stiffness in its appearance far from being so agreeable as the waving branches of our native trees, and I could not help declaiming that they did not look as if they were of God's making.
We walked thro' many cane pieces, as they term the fields of Sugar-cane and saw different ages of it. This has been a remarkable fine season, and every body is in fine spirits with the prospect of the Crop of Sugar. You have no doubt heard that Antigua has no water,* but what falls in rain; A dry....
*"Antigua has but one running stream and that is incapable of the least navigation" (Payne in "Answers to Queries"). Of the water supply the writer of the Brief Account says "This island is destitute of fresh springs, therefore the water principally used is rain, which the inhabitants collect in stone cisterns; this water, after being drawn from the reservoir, is filtered through a Barbadoes stone, which renders it free from animalcula, or any disagreeable quality it might have contracted by being kept in the tank. It is exceedingly soft and well flavored . . . as good as any I ever tasted in Europe" (pp. 6o-61).
Governor Payne, writing to Lord Dartmouth the October before, gives a description of the island that is equally flattering with that of Miss Schaw. "I have no disagreeable account of any kind wherewith I am to trouble your Lordship, from any part of my government. The crops of the present year which are just finished have in general been very good; and in some of the islands surpass'd the expectations of the planters; and the present propitious weather inspires the inhabitants with sanguine hopes of reaping a plentiful harvest in the ensuing year. There is not in any of the islands under my command any interruption to the general harmony and tranquillity which I have the satisfaction of observing to prevail throughout every part of my government, from my first entrance an my administration"; and in January, 1775, he added, "No mischievous sparks of the continental game have reached any district of the government. The trade of every island of it is most uncommonly flourishing. Provisions of all kinds from the continent of America are cheaper and more plentiful than they have been in the memory of man"(Public Record Office, C.O. 1552:55).
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.... season therefore proves destructive to the crops, as the canes require much moisture.
We returned from our walk, not the least fatigued, but the Musquetoes* had smelt the blood of a British man, and my brother has his legs bit sadly. Our petticoats, I suppose, guarded us, for we have not as yet suffered from these gentry. We supped quite agreeably, but it was quite in public. No body here is ashamed of what they are doing, for all the parlours are directly off the street and doors and windows constantly open. I own it appears droll to have people come and chat in at the windows, while we are at supper, and not only so, but if they like the party, they just walk in, take a chair, and sit down. I considered this as an inconveniency from being in a hotel, but understand, that every house is on the same easy footing. Every body in town is on a level as to station, and they are all intimately acquainted, which may easily account for this general hospitality. My manner of living too is another reason. They never fail to have a....
* The mosquitoes on the American continent as well as in the West Indies were a very troublesome novelty to Europeans. The author of the Brief Account says of Antigua. "The mosketos are troublesome, but I defend my legs (which is the part these insects principally attack) with boots" (p.7)
As to the continental colonies, Boucher complained of mosquitoes in Maryland (Maryland Magazine, March, 1913, pp. 39-40). Michel in Virginia (Virginia Magazine, January, 1916, p.40), and Beverly of the latter colony once sent for Russian lawn or gauze for four large field beds, "being to let in the air and keep out mosquitoes and flies" (Beverley latter Book). Peckover, the travelling Quaker preacher, says that he was "taken with an inflamation in my leg" in New Jersey, "occasioned by the Muskittos biting me. This is a very flat country and very subject to these insects"(Travels). In North Carolina, mosquito nets were included in inventories and invoices, and in South Carolina in 1744, it was proposed that the merchants in England send over a large quantity of Scotch kenting for pavilions, as it would come to a good market, "there being at present a great demand for that commodity, the inhabitants being almost devoured by the mosquitos for want thereof ;" (South Carolina Gazette, June 6, 1744). Even the Pilgrims were "much alloyed with muskeetoes" and some of those who returned before 1624 made them a subject of complaint against the colony. Bradford's History (Ford ed.), I, 366, and note.
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... plentiful table to sit down to. My friend Baird does not love this freedom at all, neither does he admit it at his house. Indeed the custom house people are not considered as on the same footing, and are treated with more respect. I have now given you my first day in the West Indies, part of which is from observation, and part from information. I will go over all the town to morrow, but must now retire and try if I can sleep at land, tho' I really dread the musquetoes. My brother is gone with the Collector to sleep.
We have had a sound sleep in an excellent bed chamber, in which were two beds covered with thin lawn curtains, which are here called musquetoe Nets, but we found it so cool, that we occupied but one bed. A single very fine Holland sheet was all our covering, but we found laid by the side of the beds, quilts, in case we chosed them, which by four in the morning we found to be absolutely necessary. A black girl appeared about seven with a bason of green tea for each of us, which we drank, and got up to dress, attended by our swarthy waiting maid, whom we found extremely well qualified for the office. We now descended into the hall where breakfast was set forth with every necessary, but were not a little surprised to see a goat attending to supply us with milk, which she did in great abundance; and most excellent milk it was. Cream, it is impossible to have, as no contrivance has yet been fallen on to keep it sweet above an hour. There are plenty of cows on the Island, but their milk is used only for the sick, while the goats supply milk for every common purpose, and about every house are two or three who regularly attend the Tea-kettle of their own accord.*
Our things are now brought ashore by Rob, but Mr Miller absolutely refuses to come to us, which I am not sorry for, as so much ill temper in a servant would make one look silly among strangers, and to dispute the point would render us ridiculous. We have therefore accepted the proffered service....
*This is not in genteel houses however.
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....of Memboe, the black girl, before mentioned, for whose honesty, her Mrs has become responsible, so into her hands we have committed our Wardrobe.
Breakfast was hardly over, when several carriages were at the door, begging our acceptance, to carry us about the town, or where else we chosed to go. We accepted me belonging to Mr Halliday; when Mr Martin placed himself between us, and acted the character of Gallant with great address. No Lady ever goes without a gentleman to attend her; their carriages are light and airy; this of Mr Halliday's was drawn by English horses, which is a very needless piece of expense; as they have strong horses from New England, and most beautiful creatures from the Spanish Main. Their Waggons which are large and heavy, are drawn by Mules, many of which passed Mrs Dunbar's window with very thin clothed drivers, nothing on their bodies, and little any where, which deserves the name of clothing. The women too, I mean the black women, wear little or no clothing, nothing on their bodies, and they are hardly prevailed on to wear a petticoat.
In my excursion this day, I met with some intelligent people, by which means I am become acquainted with a great many particulars, which my stay would hardly be long enough to have teamed by my own observation. I have had a full view of the town, which is very neat and very pretty, tho' it still bears the marks of two terrible Misfortunes: the dreadful fire, and still more dreadful hurricane.* Many of....
* The fire occurred on August 17, 1769, and consumed two-thirds of the town, at a loss of £40,000 Antigua currency.
The hurricane occurred on August 31, 1772. Of this terrible disaster Governor Payne wrote: "On Thursday night, the 27th of August, we had an exceedingly hard gale of wind, which continued for the space of 7 or 8 hours, and then subsided without doing any material damage. On the night of Sunday, the 30th of August the wind blew fresh . . . and continued increasing till five in the morning when it blew a hurricane from the N. E. ... a melancholy darkness prevail'd for more than an hour after sun rise. eight o'clock the fury of the tempest in some measure abated, but it was only to collect new redoubl'd violence, and to display itself, with tenfold terror. for the space of 4 hours . . . Some persons were buried in the ruins of their houses. Many houses were razed. The doors, windows, and partitions of the Court House were blown in, the interior completely wrecked and most valuable papers destroyed. The barracks are in a deplorable condition. At English Harbour, deemed storm-proof, there was a squadron under Adml Parry, whose flagship with others drove ashore and the hospital there was levelled to the ground, crushing in its fall the unfortunate patients and attendants. my new study, with most of my papers, was blown away." Quoted in Oliver, History of Antigua, I, cxxi.
There is an old negro adage regarding the coming of hurricanes:"June, too soon: July, stand by: August, come it must: September, remember: October, all over."
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.... the streets are not yet repaired, but like London, I hope it will rise more glorious from its ruins. The. publick buildings are of stone, and very handsome, they have all been built at a great expence, since the hurricane, which happened later, and was attended with more general devastation than the fire. The houses built immediately after this calamity bear all the marks of that fear, which possessed the minds of the Inhabitants at the time. They are low and seem to crutch [crouch], as if afraid of a second misfortune. But by degrees they have come to the same standard as formerly. The town consists of sixteen streets, which all ly to the trade wind in full view of the bay.
The Negroes are the only market people. No body else dreams of selling provisions. Thursday is a market day, but Sunday is the grand day, as then they are all at liberty to work for themselves, and people him workmen at a much easier rate, than on week days from their Masters. The Negroes also keep the poultry, and it is them that raise the fruits and vegetables. But as I am not yet in the country, I cannot give you so good an account, as I shall do when I have seen a Negro town. We dine this day in town, and to morrow go to Dr Dunbar's. We are much disappointed to find that Sir Ralph Payn* and his Lady are not on the....
* St Ralph Payn, governor of the Leeward Islands, with residence in Antigua, was born in St. Christopher, in 1739. He was commissioned governor May 10, 1771. resigned February 17, 1775, and returned soon after to England. "Hardly any West Indian governor," says the author of the Brief Account, "ever acquired credit there except Sir George Thomas and Sir Ralph Payne. These men were both native West Indians who knew the disposition of the people they had to govern, and by prudently keeping the arrogant at as great a distance, as the more modest would naturally keep themselves, they had the good fortune to be approved" (p. 166). Lord Dartmouth said that Sir Ralph had "ever shown a zeal and activity that is highly pleasing to the king"; and in August, 1775, after he had left the island and another appointee was under consideration, the general assembly of Antigua presented an address to the king, expressing their gratitude for his having sent them a man of Sir Ralph's character and worth and begging that he would send him back to them again.
Governor Payne had a career in England also. he was an M.P. for Plymouth in 1762, Shaftesbury, 1769, and Camelford, 1774. he was made a K.B. in 1771, and on October 1, 1795, was created an Irish peer, Baron Lavington of Lavington, entering the Privy Council in 1799. He was reappointed governor of Antigua, January 20, 1799, and died in the island, August 3, 1807, aged 68.
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.... island but they are expected to be here by Christmas, as Lady Payn never misses her duty. She has a most amiable character, and is the idol of the whole people. I regret much not having the happiness to see her, as we are particularly recommended to the governor-general and her Ladyship by Lord Mansfield.*
We have just had a visit from two Ladies, Mrs Mackinon and her daughter.# They are two of the most agreeable people I ever saw. We had letters for them, which they no sooner received, than they came to invite us to their house. Mrs Mackinon is an English Lady and but very lately come out; she was much pleased at meeting with same British people. We are engaged to pass some of our time with them:....
* The Right Honourable William Lord Mansfield was the fourth son of David Murray, Viscount Stormont, and brother of the Mrs Murray of Stormont mentioned later in the narrative . He was born at Scone, educated at Perth, and formed part of that Scottish circle Of intimates in which Min Schaw moved. He is frequently referred to, here and elsewhere, as giving assistance of one kind or another to his Scottish friends. His judicial and parliamentary career is too well known to need comment.
# Mrs. Mackinnen was Louise Vernon of Hilton Park, Stafford, who had married William Mackinnen of Antigua in 1757. Mackinnen was an absentee planter for many years, but returned to the island in 1773, and became a member of the council. He went back to England some time before 1798, lived at Exeter, and died in 1809. He was buried at Binfield, Berks, where he had a residence. In Antigua he had two plantations, "Golden Grove" and "Mackinnen's" the latter an estate of 830 acres in St. John's parish, is probably the one visited by Miss Schaw. There were four daughters.
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.... We go to church on Sunday, which they tell us is a very fine one, and dine afterwards with Collector Halliday. I must bid you Adieu for the present; my next letter will be from the Country.
The Eleanora.*
I have heard or read of a painter or poet, I forget which, that when he intended to excell in a Work of Genius, made throw around him every thing most pleasing to the eye, or delightful to the Senses. Should this always hold good, at present you might expect the most delightful epistle you ever read in your life, as whatever can charm the senses or delight the Imagination is now in my view.
My bed-chamber, to render it more airy, has a door which opens into a parterre of flowers, that glow with colours, which only the western sun is able to raise into such richness, while every breeze is fragrant with perfumes that mock the poor imitations to be produced by art. This parterre is surrounded by a hedge of Pomegranate, which is now loaded both with fruit and blossom; for here the spring does not give place to Summer, nor Summer to Autumn; these three Seasons are eternally to be found united, while we give up every claim to winter, and leave it entirely to you.
This place which belongs to my friend Doctor Dunbar, is not above two or three miles from town, and as it is an easy ascent all the way, stands high enough to give a full prospect of the bay, the shipping, the town and many rich plantations, as also the old Barracks, the fort and the Island I before mentioned. Indeed it is almost impossible to conceive so much beauty and riches under the eye in one moment. The fields all the way down to the town, are divided into cane pieces by hedges of different kinds. The favourite seems the....
* Dr. Dunbars plantation, "Eleanora" lay about two miles north of St. John's. a mile farther on than that of William Mackinnen. Both were in the Dickinson Bay division.
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....log-wood, which, tho' extremely beautiful, is not near so fit for the purpose, as what is called the prickly pear, which grows into a fence as prickly and close as our hawthorn; but so violent is the taste for beauty and scent, that this useful plant is never used, but in distant plantations. I am however resolved to enter into no particulars of this kind, till I recover my senses sufficiently to do it coolly; for at present, the beauty, the Novelty, the ten thousand charms that this scene presents to me, confuse my ideas. It appears a delightful Vision, a fairy Scene or a peep into Elysium; and surely the first poets that painted those retreats of the blessed and good, must have made some West India Island sit for the picture.
Tho' the Eleanora is still most beautiful, yet it bears evident marks of the hurricane. A very fine house was thrown to the ground, the Palmettoes stand shattered monuments of that fatal calamity; with these the house was surrounded in the same manner, as I described the plantation near town. Every body has some tragical history to give of that night of horror, but none more than the poor Doctor. His house was laid in ruins, his canes burnt up by the lightening his orange orchyards, Tammerand Walks and Cocoa trees torn from the roots, his sugar works, mills and cattle all destroyed; yet a circumstance was joined, that rendered every thing else a thousand times more dreadful. It happened in a moment a much loved wife was expiring in his arms, and she did breath her last amidst this War of Elements, this wreck of nature; while he in vain carried her from place to place for Shelter. This was the Lady I had known in Scotland. The hills behind the house are high and often craggy, on which sheep and goats feed, a Scene that gives us no small pleasure, and even relieves the eye when fatigued with looking on the dazzling lustre the other prospect presents you .
I have so many places to go to, that I fear I will not have time to write again, while on this Island. My brother proposes....
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....to make a tour round all the Islands, in which we will bear him company.
My brother has gone to make the tour of the Islands without us. Every body was so desirous of our staying here, and we were so happy, that. we easily agreed to their obliging request, nor have we reason to repent our compliance, as every hour is rendered agreeable by new marks of civility, kindness and hospitality. Miss Rutherford has found several of her boarding school-friends here;* they have many friends to talk of, many scenes to recollect. This shows me how improper it is in the parents to send them early from themselves and their country. They form their Sentiments in Britain, their early connections commence there, and they leave it just when they are at the age to enjoy it most, and return to their friends and country, as banished exiles; nor can any future connection cure them of the longing they have to return to Britain. Of this I see instances every day, and must attribute to that cause the numbers that have this little paradise, and throw away vast sums of money in London, where they are, either entirely overlooked or ridiculed for an extravagance, which after all does not even raise them to a level with hundreds around them; while they neglect the cultivation of their plantations, and leave their delightful dwellings to Overseers, who enrich themselves, and live like princes at the expence of their thoughtless masters, feasting every day on delicacies, which the utmost event of expence is unable to procure in Britain. Antigua has more proprietors on it however than any of the other Islands, which gives it a great Superiority. St Christopher's, they tell me, is almost abandoned to Overseers and managers, owing to the amazing fortunes that belong to Individuals, who almost all reside....
*It is of course impossible to identify Fanny's boarding school, but the following entry in the Scots Magazine (36, p. 392) may well refer to it. "Miss Sarah Young, daughter of Patrick Young of Killicanty, [who] kept a boarding school in Edinburgh for young ladies upwards of thirty years," died on July 30, 1774.
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....in England. Mr Mackinnon had never been out here, had not his overseer forgot he had any superior, and having occasion for the whole income, had sent his Master no remittances for above two years. He found things however in very good order, as this gentleman for his own sake, had taken care of that. But as his constitution is now entirely British, he feels the effects of the Climate, and is forced to think of wintering at New York for his health. We have seen every body of fashion in the Island, and our toilet is loaded with cards of Invitation, which I hope we will have time to accept, and I will then be able to say more as to the manners of a people with whom I am hitherto delighted. Forgive dearest of friends, for being happy when so far from you, but the hopes of meeting, to be happy hereafter supports my spirits.
I was yesterday at church,* and found they had not said more of it than it deserved; for tho' the outside is a plain building, its inside is magnificent. It has a very fine organ, a spacious altar, and every thing necessary to a church which performs the English Service. You know I am no bigoted Presbyterian, and as the tenets are the same, I was resolved to conform to the ceremonies, but am sorry to find in myself the force of habit too strong, I fear, to be removed. The church was very full, the Audience most devout. I looked at them with pleasure, but found I was a mere Spectator, and that what I now felt had no more to do with me, than when....
* St. John's Church was built in the years 1740-1745, the tower, which had not been erected when Miss Schaw visited the island, being added in 1786-1789. The building occupied a conspicuous position on an eminence in the northeast quarter of the town and was visible from all the country round. It was built of brick and stone, its yard being enclosed by a brick wall, the bricks having been obtained in England and America. On pillars at the south entrance were two well executed figures in Portland stone of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangalist, to whom the church was dedicated, and in the tower were a clock and a bell given in 1789 by John Delap Halliday, son of the collector. The organ had been purchased in 1760 and in 1772 an organist, George Harland Hartley, was installed. The rector, whom Miss Schaw so much disliked, was the Rev. John Bowen, 1767-1783 (Oliver, III, 357-359; Brief Account, P. 21).
94
....I admired Digges worshipping in the Temple of the Sun. This is a discovery I am sorry to make, but if one considers that the last Clergyman I heard in Scotland was Mr Webster,* and that the last service I heard him perform was that of a prayer for myself and friends, who were bidding adieu to their native land, in which were exerted all there powers, which he possesses in so eminent a degree, his own heart affected by the subject, and mine deeply, deeply interested. It was no wonder that those now read from a book by a Clerk, who only did it, because he was paid for doing it, appeared cold and unapropos. The musick tho' fine added as little to my devotion as the sniveling of a sincere-hearted country precantor, perhaps less; but the beauty, the neatness and elegance of the Church pleased me much, and in this I own, we are very defective in Scotland. The seat for the Governor General is noble and magnificent, covered with Crimson velvet; the drapery round it edged with deep gold fringe; the Crown Cyphers and emblem of his office embossed and very rich. Below this is the seat for the Counsellors equally fine and ornamented, but what pleased me more than all I saw, was a great number of Negroes who occupied the Area, and went thro' the Service with seriousness and devotion. I must not forget one thing that really diverted me; the parson who has a fine income is as complete a Cox-comb as I ever met with in a pulpit. He no sooner cast his eyes to where we were than he seemed to forget the rest of the Audience, and on running over his sermon, which he held in his hand, he appeared dissatisfied, and without more ado dismounted from the pulpit, leaving the Service unfinished,....
* Rev. Dr. Alexander Webster (1707-1784) was chaplain in ordinary for Scotland in 1771 and a dean of the royal chapel. His son, Lieutenant Colonel William Webster, served in the British army in America and was wounded at Guilford Cart House. Later he died of his wounds and was buried at Elizabeth, Bladen county, North Carolina.
95
.... and went home for another; which to do it justice was a very good one.
We found Mr Martin at the Church door with our carriages, into which we mounted, and were soon at Mr Halliday's Plantation, where he this day dined; for he has no less than five, all of which have houses on them. This house is extremely pleasant, and so cool that one might forget they were under the Tropick. We had a family dinner, which in England might figure away in a newspaper, had it been given by a Lord Mayor, or the first Duke in the kingdom. Why should we blame these people for their luxury? since nature holds out her lap, filled with every thing that is in her power to bestow, it were sinful in them not to be luxurious. I have now seen Turtle almost every day, and tho' I never could eat it at home, am vastly fond of it here, where it is indeed a very different thing. You get nothing but old ones there, the chickens being unable to stand the voyage; even these are starved, or at best fed on coarse and improper food. Here they are young, tender, fresh from the water, where they feed as delicately, and are as great Epicures a those who feed on them. They laugh at us for the racket we make to have it divided into different dishes. They never make but two, the soup and the shell. The first is commonly made of old Turtle, which is cut up and sold at Market, as we do butcher meat. It was remarkably well dressed to day. The shell indeed is a noble dish, as it contains all the fine parts of the Turtle baked within its own body; here is the green fat, not the slabbery thing my stomach used to stand at, but firm and more delicate than it is possible to describe. Could an Alderman of true taste conceive the difference between it here and in the city, he would make the Voyage on purpose, and I fancy he would make a voyage into the other world before he left the table.