Professor Lesley Miller

  • Professor of Dress and Textile History (History of Art)

Biography

Lesley Miller has been a part-time Professor at the University of Glasgow since 2013. Until 2021, she was also Senior Curator of Textiles and Dress (before 1800), in the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Department at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London. Between 2010 and 2015, she led the curatorial team on the refurbishment and reinterpretation of the galleries devoted to Europe 1600-1815, subsequently acted as curatorial consultant for the exhibition Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion (2016-7), and project leader and co-editor for the recently published Silk. Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2018-21). Before joining the V&A in 2005, Lesley taught dress and textile history in Higher Education and was latterly Head of Division in History of Art & Design at the University of Southampton in Winchester.

Lesley took her first degree in Hispanic Studies at the University of Glasgow, then studied for a Masters in History of Dress at the Courtauld Institute of Art. Having discovered the relatively new field of academic dress and textile history, she moved swiftly into research for a PhD at Brighton Polytechnic (now University). Subsequently, she taught Design History at several British universities, and has lectured in Europe and the Americas. A specialist in early modern textiles and fashion, Lesley focuses in particular on aspects of design and commerce in the 18th-century French silk industry, and is currently preparing a book on 18th-century Lyonnais designer manufacturers.

Research interests

Lesley contributes to the MLitt Dress and Textile Histories at the University of Glasgow and welcomes proposals from graduate students interested in pursuing doctoral research on European 18th-century dress and textile topics, in particular those that seek to unite the investigation of objects with archival research. She also has a particular interest in mid-20th-century French and Spanish fashion and textiles, and the collecting of fashion and textiles.

 

Publications

List by: Type | Date

Jump to: 2021 | 2017 | 2015 | 2014 | 2012 | 2009
Number of items: 14.

2021

Miller, L. E. and Cabrera Lafuente, A. (Eds.) (2021) Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. Thames and Hudson / Victoria and Albert Museum: London. ISBN 9780500480656 (In Press)

Cabrera Lafuente, A. and Miller, L.E. (Eds.) (2021) Collecting Spain. Ediciones Polifemo: Madrid. ISBN 9788416335787 (In Press)

2017

Miller, L. E. (2017) Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. V & A Publishing: London. ISBN 9781851779031

Miller, L. E. (2017) Making a reputation from innovation: silk designers in Lyon, 1660-1789. In: Welch, E. (ed.) Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800. Series: Pasold studies in textile history. Oxford University Press: Oxford, pp. 187-214. ISBN 9780198738176

Miller, L. E. (2017) La moda española en el Siglo de Oro [Exhibition Catalogue]. Editado por Rafael García Serrano. Bulletin of Spanish Studies, 94(2), pp. 349-350. (doi: 10.1080/14753820.2017.1328823)[Book Review]

Miller, L. E. (2017) Reviews of Books: La moda española en el Siglo de Oro [Exhibition Catalogue]. Editado por Rafael García Serrano. Bulletin of Spanish Studies, 94(2), pp. 349-350. (doi: 10.1080/14753820.2017.1328823)[Book Review]

2015

Miller, L. E. (2015) Dictionary of Eighteenth-Century French Silk Designers. Pasold Research Fund.

2014

Miller, L. (2014) An illustrious English gentleman dressed the Spanish way: the visit of the Prince of Wales to Madrid in 1623. In: Colomer, J. L. and Descalzo, A. (eds.) Vestir a la Española en las Cortes Europeas (Siglos XVI y XVII). Series: Confluencias. Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica: Madrid, pp. 293-316. ISBN 9788493677664

Miller, L. E. (2014) Material marketing: how lyonnais silk manufacturers sold silks, 1660-1789. In: Stobart, J. and Blondé, B. (eds.) Selling Textiles in the Long Eighteenth Century: Comparative Perspectives from Western Europe. Palgrave Macmillan: Basingstoke, pp. 85-98. ISBN 9781137295200

Miller, L. E. (2014) Selling Silks: a Merchant's Sample Book 1764. V & A Publishing: London. ISBN 9781851777815

2012

Miller, L. (2012) Fidélités trompeuses: la consommation des soieries à Madrid, 1759-1788. In: Rolland, C. (ed.) Autour des Van Loo: Peinture, Commerce des Tissus et Espionnage en Europe (1250-1830). Publications des universités de Rouen et du Havre: Mont-Saint-Aignan, France, pp. 135-144. ISBN 9782877755016

Miller, L. (2012) La Culture de la manufacture: les marchands fabricants. In: Privat-Savigny, M. (ed.) Lyon au XVIIIe siècle: Un Siècle Surprenant! Musées Gadagne/Somogy: Lyon, France, pp. 109-121. ISBN 9782757205808

Miller, L. (2012) A portrait of the 'Raphael of silk design'. V&A Online Journal, 4,

2009

Miller, L. (2009) Departing from the pheasant and the peacock: the role of furnishing textiles in the career of Philippe Lasalle (1723-1804). In: Jolly, A. and Albainy, T. (eds.) Furnishing Textiles: Studies on Seventeenth- and Eighteenth-Century Interior Decoration. Series: Riggisberger Berichte (17). Abegg-Stiftung: Riggisberg, Switzerland, pp. 79-90. ISBN 9783905014365

This list was generated on Tue Sep 28 11:48:24 2021 BST.
Number of items: 14.

Articles

Miller, L. (2012) A portrait of the 'Raphael of silk design'. V&A Online Journal, 4,

Books

Miller, L. E. (2017) Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. V & A Publishing: London. ISBN 9781851779031

Miller, L. E. (2015) Dictionary of Eighteenth-Century French Silk Designers. Pasold Research Fund.

Miller, L. E. (2014) Selling Silks: a Merchant's Sample Book 1764. V & A Publishing: London. ISBN 9781851777815

Book Sections

Miller, L. E. (2017) Making a reputation from innovation: silk designers in Lyon, 1660-1789. In: Welch, E. (ed.) Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800. Series: Pasold studies in textile history. Oxford University Press: Oxford, pp. 187-214. ISBN 9780198738176

Miller, L. (2014) An illustrious English gentleman dressed the Spanish way: the visit of the Prince of Wales to Madrid in 1623. In: Colomer, J. L. and Descalzo, A. (eds.) Vestir a la Española en las Cortes Europeas (Siglos XVI y XVII). Series: Confluencias. Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica: Madrid, pp. 293-316. ISBN 9788493677664

Miller, L. E. (2014) Material marketing: how lyonnais silk manufacturers sold silks, 1660-1789. In: Stobart, J. and Blondé, B. (eds.) Selling Textiles in the Long Eighteenth Century: Comparative Perspectives from Western Europe. Palgrave Macmillan: Basingstoke, pp. 85-98. ISBN 9781137295200

Miller, L. (2012) Fidélités trompeuses: la consommation des soieries à Madrid, 1759-1788. In: Rolland, C. (ed.) Autour des Van Loo: Peinture, Commerce des Tissus et Espionnage en Europe (1250-1830). Publications des universités de Rouen et du Havre: Mont-Saint-Aignan, France, pp. 135-144. ISBN 9782877755016

Miller, L. (2012) La Culture de la manufacture: les marchands fabricants. In: Privat-Savigny, M. (ed.) Lyon au XVIIIe siècle: Un Siècle Surprenant! Musées Gadagne/Somogy: Lyon, France, pp. 109-121. ISBN 9782757205808

Miller, L. (2009) Departing from the pheasant and the peacock: the role of furnishing textiles in the career of Philippe Lasalle (1723-1804). In: Jolly, A. and Albainy, T. (eds.) Furnishing Textiles: Studies on Seventeenth- and Eighteenth-Century Interior Decoration. Series: Riggisberger Berichte (17). Abegg-Stiftung: Riggisberg, Switzerland, pp. 79-90. ISBN 9783905014365

Book Reviews

Miller, L. E. (2017) La moda española en el Siglo de Oro [Exhibition Catalogue]. Editado por Rafael García Serrano. Bulletin of Spanish Studies, 94(2), pp. 349-350. (doi: 10.1080/14753820.2017.1328823)[Book Review]

Miller, L. E. (2017) Reviews of Books: La moda española en el Siglo de Oro [Exhibition Catalogue]. Editado por Rafael García Serrano. Bulletin of Spanish Studies, 94(2), pp. 349-350. (doi: 10.1080/14753820.2017.1328823)[Book Review]

Edited Books

Miller, L. E. and Cabrera Lafuente, A. (Eds.) (2021) Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. Thames and Hudson / Victoria and Albert Museum: London. ISBN 9780500480656 (In Press)

Cabrera Lafuente, A. and Miller, L.E. (Eds.) (2021) Collecting Spain. Ediciones Polifemo: Madrid. ISBN 9788416335787 (In Press)

This list was generated on Tue Sep 28 11:48:24 2021 BST.

Grants

Between 2010 and 2013 Lesley was a Principal Investigator on the major HERA Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe 1500-1800, collaborating with the project Director Professor Evelyn Welch and partners in universities and museums in Denmark, Finland and Sweden.

 

Supervision

I welcome PhD applications from students in the areas of early modern dress and textile history. 

Teaching

MLitt Dress and Textile Histories: contributions to

  • Framing Dress and Textile Histories
  • The Birth of Modern Fashion, 1660-1815
  • Applying Dress and Textile Histories
  • Dissertation supervision
  • Placement supervision

Additional information

AFFILIATION

  • Governor of the Pasold Research Fund
  • Vice-President of the CIETA (Centre International pour l’Etude des Textiles Anciens).
  • Member of the Editorial Board of Textile History
  • Member of scientific committee for the Renaissance of the Musée des Tissus and Musée des Arts decoratifs, Lyon (2018-)
  • Member of the Advisory Board for Burrell Renaissance, Glasgow Museums Service (2016-22)

BOOK REVIEWS

Concha Herrero Carretero, Alvaro Molina and Jesusa Vega, La decoración ideada por François Grognard para los apartamentos de la Duquesa de Alba en el Palacio de Buenavista, Madrid, La Casa de Velázquez, 2020), Textile History, Vol. 52:1 (2021) https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2021.1948194 [Book review]

Clare Backhouse, Fashion and Popular Print in Early Modern England. Depicting Dress in Black-Letter Ballads. (London and New York: I.B. Tauris, 2017), Costume, Vol.53:1 (March 2019), pp. 127-8 [Book review]

Ludovic Frobert, ed., Archives de Soie. Fabrique et Insurrections à Lyon au Début des Années 1830. Journées d’étude des Musées Gadagne (Silvana Editoriale, Milan, 2014) and Ludovic Frobert and George Sheridan, Le Solitaire du Ravin. Pierre Charnier (1795-1857), Canut Lyonnais et Prud’homme Tisseur (ENS Éditions, Lyon, 2014), Textile History (November 2017), 48:2, pp.283-5. DOI :10.1080/00404969.2017.1379760 [Book review]

FORTHCOMING PUBLICATIONS

Miller, L.E., ‘Utility Reassessed: The École gratuite de dessin and Textile Production in 18th-century Lyon’, in Les réseaux des académies d’art au siècle des Lumières, eds Anne Perrin Khelissa, Émilie Roffidal, with Markus Castor (Centre allemand d’histoire de l’art / Université d’Heidelberg / Université de Toulouse, forthcoming 2022)

Miller, L.E., ‘Lace à la Mode in France, 1690-1790’, in ed. by Michel Majer and Emma Cormack, Luxury, Power, and Control: Lace in the Collection of the Textilmuseum St. Gallen. Exh.cat. (forthcoming New York: Bard Graduate Center, 2022)