Avenue

My Secret City: Dublin

A vibrant and welcoming city on the east coast of Ireland, Dublin straddles the River Liffey and is famous for its music, the history woven through its streets and the entertaining atmosphere or conversation known as ‘craic’. Claire Lowney (MLitt 2011) shows off her favourite spots in the lively Irish capital.  

Phoenix Park is both my favourite park and my favourite place to get some peace and quiet. It’s one of the largest enclosed public parks in any capital city in Europe – twice the size of Central Park in New York, at an impressive 1,750 acres – so it’s easy to find a quiet corner all to yourself. It’s also home to the Áras an Uachtaráin, the President of Ireland’s residence; Dublin Zoo; and a large herd of fallow deer. 

Books Upstairs on D’Olier St offers book bundles, so you select the genre and some books that you’ve enjoyed reading and the staff will create a unique trio of books just for you. It’s Dublin’s oldest independent bookstore, and they always have a very considered selection. 

If I have an hour free I will pop into the National Gallery and head straight for their Print Gallery. It’s a specially designed exhibition space that always has some beautiful prints on display. At the moment they have 'Rembrandt to Matisse – A Celebration of European Works on Paper' on display until December 2026. 

It’s always amusing watching the interactions between seagulls, tourists and their lunch at St Stephen’s Green, a small park right in the city centre. It has some beautiful landscaped gardens and a wee pond that’s home to ducks, swans and the odd heron – as well as the very vocal and boisterous flock of seagulls.   

The Olympia is a beautiful Victorian theatre right in the city centre. It’s a very intimate space and I’ve been to some memorable gigs there. Seeing Flaming Lips cram their show, complete with massive inflatable pink robots, into such a tiny space was very special! 

I enjoy a lazy Sunday strolling round the city centre. I usually take in Drury and South William Streets, get a coffee in Kaph or grab a pint in Grogan’s (if I'm lucky enough to secure a seat!). There’s always a buzz around there and it’s another great place to people-watch.

"My ideal day would be breakfast and coffee in Two Boys followed by a matinee at the Lighthouse Cinema. After that I would stop at Banco, a wee Italian bakery that does incredible focaccias, then head to the Phoenix Park for a relaxing stroll.”

The National Gallery of Ireland is a bit of a labyrinth with lots of new wings added, making it great to get lost in. I would frequently attend when I was an undergrad studying Art History. You may even be lucky enough to visit when Caravaggio’s The Taking of the Christ is at home and not out on loan. 

If I want a day out of the city I will put the dog in the car and head for the coast. We’ve got a lovely stretch of coastline with some superb beaches like the one at Malahide – you don’t need to walk far to get a little bit all to yourself. It also offers a lovely vista out to Lambay Island, Howth and Ireland's Eye. 

My food & drink hit list

Two Boys Brew in the north of the city has exceptional coffee and their brunch menu is top-notch – be prepared to wait for a table as this place is popular. They are also very dog friendly and always have some wee dug treats stashed behind the counter. Our dog Bainne (Irish for milk) is a big fan! 

Murphy’s Ice Cream on Wicklow St is definitely worth a visit regardless of the weather. Originally from Dingle in Kerry, Murphy’s now have shops in a few different locations across the country – a testament to their popularity. You can try some of the more experimental flavours before you commit, and their brown bread ice-cream is a must.  

Bar 1661, just off Capel St, is hands down the best in the city, nay, the country, for cocktails! It was named Ireland’s bar of the year in 2025. The menu is extensive and the knowledgeable and friendly staff will help you pick your new favourite drink. They distil their own poitín and use it in some of the cocktails such as their signature drink, Belfast Coffee. The cocktails pack a punch, so be warned. If you’re feeling brave you can book in for an immersive experience to taste all 28 cocktails on the menu!  

If you’re looking for a ubiquitous staple, just like a local would eat, get yourself to the nearest Spar or Centra deli counter and ask for a chicken fillet roll. Personally, I get mine with a spicy chicken fillet, mayo, lettuce and cheese. It’s like the Irish equivalent of a Greggs sausage roll – but better!  

"At Glás, they do things with vegetables you didn’t think possible. Or, as we like to say in Dublin, it’s deadly!” 

Glás is a superb vegetarian and vegan restaurant that consistently has an exciting and surprising menu. Bonus, all the food is also gluten free! If you really want to push the boat out and money is no object, try and get a reservation at Chapter One. It’s a two-Michelin-star restaurant on Parnell Square.  
 
Though this is in no way a definitive list to getting a pint of the black stuff, Neary’s, off Grafton St, do a fine Guinness and their staff are great; The Swan on Aungier St is a Victorian pub full of character and does a decent pint; upstairs in the Lord Edward opposite Christchurch is a cosy spot for a pint and, in the winter, to add to the atmosphere, they’ll usually have a fire going.