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Skye, South Cuillin, Sron na Ciche

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Skye map.

Southern  Cuillin map.

Landsat view of the Cuillin.

While you explore the Cuillin ridge on the edge of the Atlantic why not listen to "Edge of the World" (3.2MB mp3) by Scottish band Don't give up the day job!

Looking up the Sgumain Stone Shoot with Eastern Buttress, Cioch and Cioch Upper Buttress on the left.

Eastern Buttress, Sron na Ciche.

Start of Eastern Buttress Direct. "Where do all these loops go? In the old days you just tied the rope round your waist and you belayed using the friction of a nylon shirt!"

Direct Route Eastern Buttress, Sron na Ciche.

Direct Route Eastern Buttress,  the vertical, narrow chimney, which stout climbers cannot enter, necessitating an awkward haul over the chock stone.

Direct Route Eastern Buttress, a long sling and a couple of crabs are often necessary in Skye chimneys. Alternatively, you can leave your gear at the bottom of the cliff and cripple yourself descending scree in rock shoes. John and I even took our rucksacks up Integrity so we could enjoy a part round of Coire Lagan on the way down.

Direct Route Eastern Buttress. Above the vertical, narrow chimney,  below are: the rib of Eastern Buttress, Eastern Gully, the Terrace, Collie's Route and Cioch Slab. John has put his rucksack back on.

Filming you, filming me, on the Eastern Buttress

Eastern Buttress route finding: we know our way about: "I think it might be called the Cioch!"

Final wall of Eastern Buttress Direct.

Top of the final wall of Eastern Buttress Direct. Screaming exposure and tiny foot holds, that's the bottom of Eastern gully below John's heels. My shoulder is still sore from hauling myself up the thin crack just below John.

cioch1.jpg (6940 bytes)Cioch Slab and the Cioch, from the Terrace, Sron na Ciche.

Cioch Slab and the Cioch, Sron na Ciche.

cioch1.jpg (6940 bytes)Arrow Route, Cioch Slab.

Arrow Route from the Cioch.

Looking down Arrow Route.

cioch1.jpg (6940 bytes)Cioch, Corrie Lagan.

Cioch, Corrie Lagan.

cioch31.jpg (6940 bytes)Cioch and Cioch Slab.

Cioch and Cioch Slab from Coire Lagan. Climbers on Collie's Route and the Terrace.

cioch21.jpg (8175 bytes)Leaving Cioch.

Cioch Slab and Upper Buttress from Eastern Buttress. Shown are Collie's route, Arrow route, Integrity and Wallwork's route.

Cioch Upper Buttress showing Integrity and Wallwork's route.

Leaving Cioch, taken from Eastern Buttress.

Cioch and the Slab from Eastern Buttress

integrity1.jpg (8012 bytes)Integrity from the Cioch, Sron na Ciche.

integrity1.jpg (8012 bytes)Integrity, looking down to the Cioch.

West Buttress of Sgurr Sgumain from top of Integrity.

Looking up Median Route, Sron na Ciche. 

The yellow X marks the spot where we smoked a proverbial pipefull.

Bottom pitch of Median route Western Buttress Sron na Ciche. 

"The whole buttress is on a vast scale. The essence of this cliff is exploration and it is a fine place to get lost." : SMC guide.

Coire Lagan from high on Median Route, Western Buttress, Sron na Ciche.

We spent 3 hours getting into and out of a dead end under huge overhangs above and to the left of the deep-cut chimney of Chimney and Crack climb. The usual collection of tattered abseil slings suggested a through route was unlikely, but I brought the team up anyway to savour the situation. I am sure I could smell pipe smoke and imagined Barlow and Steeple contemplating the situation over a bowl full. Never one to leave a sling lightly, we down climbed and rejoined the correct route below and to the west of the deep-cut chimney.

Top of Median Route.

CirMhor41.jpg (8307 bytes)Loch Brittle.

Looking across Soay to Eigg and Rum from Sron na Ciche.

CirMhor41.jpg (8307 bytes)Rock rose, Sron na Ciche.

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Site editor: Douglas E Wilcox (D.E.Wilcox@clinmed.gla.ac.uk )
Updated 21/02/02