The forecast was perfect, the plan was to visit Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. The Treshnish are an exposed chain of uninhabited Islands off the West coast of Mull, they are exposed to the full Atlantic swell and the beaches are very rocky in nature. Strong tidal streams run through the chain of islands and between the chain and Gometra (up to 2-2.5knts at Springs).
.GPS
track of route.
Tide times: HW Oban 18:00 BST
I met up with Gavin in Oban, where we left one car and caught the 16:00 ferry to Craignure. I knew we were in for a good weekend when we spotted a pod of Bottlenose dolphins riding the bow wave of the ferry as we passed the southern tip of Lismore. A short drive from Craignure to Ulva ferry saw us packed and on the water before 18:00 with the goal to aim for a campsite on the south side of Gometra.
18:00
Basalt columns of Gometra looking East into Loch na Keal.
The sea was calm and the weather perfect so we decided to head on out to Staffa. As we paddled out past Little Colonsey, we were greeted by the first squadron of shearwaters, followed by the comical puffins, you just cant help smiling when you see your first puffin of the trip. We arrived at Staffa, just as the sun was setting and headed round to the great face to take a look at the caves.
21:00
Sunset on Staffa's great face with Boat cave to the left and Fingal's Cave to
the right.
The
great face of Staffa at sunset.
We landed on the deserted island, set up camp, and got the driftwood fire going. A full moon persuaded us to go for a midnight hike into Fingal's cave- an atmospheric experience.
Tide times: HW Oban 06:24, 18:50
Next morning we explored the island on foot before the flotilla of tour boats arrived.
09:00
Am Buachaille, looks like extruded child's playdo.
The
path to Fingal's cave passes the channel between Am Buachaille and Staffa, the
swell was rocketing through this gap.
Fingal's
cave looking out.
Fingal's
cave looking in.
View
from the summit of Staffa to the next destination, the Treshnish isles. We were
on the water before 10am, and circled the island before heading to Bac Mor
"The Dutchman's Cap".
12:30
We managed a short stop on a kelp bench on the reef between Bac Mor and Bac
Beag, there was a big swell running and this island is very exposed with no
obvious landing places- don't depend on landing here!
Looking
back to Staffa and Mull beyond from the Dutchman's cap.
Next we headed up to Lunga, landed for some lunch and explored the island.
14:30
Looking North from the summit of Lunga, note the tidal streams between the
islands.
Looking
South from the summit of Lunga to the Dutchman's cap.
We then got back on the water and paddled North around the remaining Islands in the chain, Fladda, and Cairn na Burgh Beg.
21:00
We then headed back to Lunga to set up camp for the night.
Boulder
beach landing site on Lunga. After dinner we hiked around the island and back to
the summit to catch the sunset.
View
North from the summit of Lunga.
View
East from the summit of Lunga, to Mull and Ben More.
View
West from the summit of Lunga, to Coll and the Outer Hebrides.
View
North from the summit of Lunga, towards Rum and Skye.
Tide times: HW Oban 07:07, 19:26.
On the water by 9am and headed North to Fladda before heading West to cross back to Gometra.
About 1km from Fladda I was surprised to see an enormous dorsal fin surface about 2 meters from my boat. It was a feeding basking shark, well over 24 foot long. We spent a full 20 minutes watching this huge fish as it circled us, scooping up plankton with its huge mouth. At times it would head straight for the kayak then turn away when it got within a meter or 2.
09:45
Basking shark off Fladda.
Gavin
gets up close and personal with a large fish.
We then continued the crossing Gometra, and threaded our way through the islets and skerries on the South coast before heading into Traigh Ban for a Lunch stop.
12:40
Traigh Ban.
We then continued on to Ulva ferry, packed up and caught the 17:30 ferry back to the mainland. A perfect weekend covering 70km; with amazing weather and wildlife.
All photos © and courtesy of Tony Page a.page@vet.gla.ac.uk
Tidal constants with respect to Oban:
Forecast and tide tables:
BBC Radio Scotland (94 to 95 FM, 810 MW) Outdoors conditions forecasts are broadcast 18.58 Monday-Friday, 06.58 and 18.58 Saturday and 06.58 and 19.58 Sunday.
BBC Radio 4 Shipping forecast (LW: 198, FM: 92.4 to 95.8) 05:35 LW/FM (includes inshore forecast), 12:00 LW, 17:54 LW/FM, 00:48 LW/FM
Hazards:
References:
Common sense:
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Site editor: Douglas Wilcox (D.E.Wilcox@clinmed.gla.ac.uk
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Created 11/11/04
Last edited 11/11/04