Scottish Sea Kayaking Photo Gallery


"The lagoons, beaches, caves and islands of Loch Roag."

The Scottish Sea Kayaking Photo Gallery Hebridean Symphony, First Movement, July 2005.

A 5 day paddle from Bhaltos in north west Lewis to Pabaigh Mor, Bhacsaigh, Fuaidh Mor, Bearnaraigh, Eilean Bhacasaigh, Bearnaraigh Beg, Cealasaigh, Campaigh, and the ragged robin field of Flodaigh, 21-25/7/05.


050721_24gpschart.jpg (214517 bytes)GPS track of route, 66.4km.

Day 1: 21/07/05 

We left  Uig on Skye on the 14:00 CalMac ferry, MV Hebrides, to Lochmaddy on North Uist arriving at 1545. 

050721PICT0003.jpg (125568 bytes)15:56 The camera obscura at Sponais, Lochmaddy. Mike was feeling very tired after the long drive and a bad head cold.

050721PICT0001.jpg (41265 bytes)15:58 Inside the camera obscura.

050721PICT0005.jpg (52213 bytes)16:47 Waiting at the Berneray Jetty for the 17:30 ferry to Leverburgh on Harris (arrived 18:30).

050721PICT0009.jpg (56238 bytes)18:36 Evening mist on Ceapabhal (365m), Harris.

050721PICT0011.jpg (50059 bytes)18:44 Ceapabhal above Traigh Scarasta, Harris.

Day 1: 2.2 km.

Conditions on the day: Wind NW force 4 LW (Carloway) 13:26 BST 0.71m HW: 19:54 4.27m..

050721PICT0013_14.jpg (110517 bytes)21:33 Bhaltos Pier, Loch Roag, Lewis.

050721PICT0020.jpg (85950 bytes)22:07 Arrival at Pabaigh Mor (Pabbay Mor).

Day 2: 22/07/05:  26km.

Conditions on the day: Wind NE force 3 - 4 HW: 08:24 3.88m   LW: 14:11 0.64m HW: 20:39 4.39m

050722PICT0023.jpg (131874 bytes)07:09 Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0025.jpg (90143 bytes)07:14 Traigh na Cille, abaigh Mor.

050722PICT0026.jpg (80408 bytes)07:16 Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT00269.jpg (60833 bytes)08:37 Common Lousewort.

050722PICT0033.jpg (97981 bytes)08:49 19th century lobster ponds, Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0034.jpg (48714 bytes)08:52 Bog Asphodel.

050722PICT0035.jpg (94527 bytes)08:59 Seana Chnoc, Old Hill, from Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0036.jpg (88463 bytes)09:11 Billy above camp site Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0040.jpg (81727 bytes)09:13 Traigh na Beirigh from Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0044.jpg (63299 bytes)09:32 Multi coloured jelly fish, Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0047.jpg (77492 bytes)09:53 All set for adventure!

050922IMGP0146nicoll.jpg (98341 bytes)11.00 Seana Chnoc from Pabaigh Mor.
Photo Billy Nicol

050722DSC00248.jpg (99402 bytes)11:04 Sea arch, Pabaigh Mor.

050722DSC00249.jpg (49854 bytes)11:05 Rounding Mas Sgeir to the north of Pabaigh Beg. The chart notes: "Breaks in Heavy Weather"

050722PICT0052.jpg (72179 bytes)11:25 The lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050922IMGP0147nicoll.jpg (92968 bytes)11:27 The lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050722PICT0056.jpg (64586 bytes)11:40 The lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050722PICT0059.jpg (46901 bytes)12:10 The lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050722PICT0061.jpg (90015 bytes)12:12 Sea arch, Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0066.jpg (87252 bytes)12:15 The lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050722DSC00257.jpg (69362 bytes)12:42 Leaving the lagoon between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beg.

050722DSC00259.jpg (127783 bytes)12:44 Cave, S side of Pabaigh Mor.

050722DSC00260.jpg (66520 bytes)12:48 Cave, Pabaigh Mor.

050722PICT0070.jpg (82171 bytes)13:11 Bhaltos.

050722PICT0074.jpg (67157 bytes)13:28 Traigh na Beirigh 

050722PICT0076.jpg (69402 bytes)13:40 Mink, Bhacsaigh.

050722PICT0086.jpg (93597 bytes)13:58 Black Guillemots, Bhacsaigh.

050722PICT0090.jpg (63062 bytes)14:03 West coast Bhacsaigh. The water kind of sloped round here!

050722PICT0097.jpg (55853 bytes)14:17 Seana Chnoc from Bhacsaigh.

050722PICT0100.jpg (74275 bytes)14:33 Traigh na Beirigh from Bhacsaigh. Just round from here there is another sheltered lagoon where we stopped for lunch.

050722PICT0104.jpg (85041 bytes)14:34 Traigh na Beirigh from Bhacsaigh.

050722DSC00263.jpg (39655 bytes)15:52 Jelly fish, Rubha Sheotharaid.

050722DSC00264.jpg (61191 bytes)15:53 Jelly fish, Rubha Sheotharaid.

We set up camp at Riof, then Billy and I headed off for an 11km evening paddle to Valasay on Great Bernera with a circumnavigation of Fuaidh Mor. Mike was not feeling at all well and headed back to the car to get the ferry timetables.

050722PICT0109.jpg (157986 bytes)18:45 Tidal weir, Bhalasaigh, we shot through this very easily but try as we might we could not paddle back up it so we had a little portage.

050923IMGP0156nicoll.jpg (116919 bytes)18:48 Tidal weir, Bhalasaigh.
Photo Billy Nicol

050722PICT0114.jpg (65567 bytes)20:02 Fuaidh Mor.

050722PICT0123.jpg (92789 bytes)20:14 Riof.Traigh na Beirigh

Day 3: 23/07/05: 23.7km

Conditions on the day: Wind NE force 4 HW: 09:13 3.95m   LW: 14:56 0.63m HW: 21:24 4.41m

050723PICT0125.jpg (70216 bytes)08:42 Riof

050723PICT0127.jpg (65159 bytes)08:54 Returning to Bhaltos past Traigh na Beirigh. Unfortunately Mike's viral head cold had developed into bacterial sinusitis and he had no option but to return home.

050723DSC00267.jpg (35958 bytes)09:46 Approaching Bhaltos to drop Mike back at the car.

050723PICT0133.jpg (69368 bytes)12:30 Heading east up Sruth Iasiardar under the bridge to Bearnaraigh. The cliffs were draped by honesuckle and we saw several otters. The ebb was running quite strongly under the bridge and it was a relief to take a break beside the remains of an ancient broch. The bridge was built in 1953 and was the first prestressed concrete bridge to be built in Britain (and Europe!) We were quite stressed by the passage under it.

050723PICT0141.jpg (134616 bytes)15:08 Another break on Eilean Bhacasaigh opposite Kirkibost pier.

050723PICT0142.jpg (65946 bytes)15:51 Eilean Bhacasaigh NNW up east Loch Roag to our destination, a still distant Bearnaraigh Beag.

050723DSC00271.jpg (98176 bytes)16:45 East Loch Roag, this was a long hard leg with both the wind and the tide against us.. 

050723DSC00272.jpg (106222 bytes)16:45 East Loch Roag. 

050923IMGP0164nicoll.jpg (64993 bytes)16:53 East Loch Roag. 

050723DSC00281.jpg (67300 bytes)17:21 East Loch Roag, it got quite rough at times. 

050723DSC00282.jpg (81776 bytes)17:21 Bearnaraigh Beag.

050723DSC00285.jpg (66153 bytes)17:26 Bearnaraigh Beag.

050723PICT0143.jpg (61913 bytes)17:27 Temple Sands.

050723PICT0152.jpg (73188 bytes)17:32 Temple Sands.

050723PICT0155.jpg (74453 bytes)17:37 Temple Sands.

050723PICT0161.jpg (68382 bytes)17:40 Temple Sands.

050723PICT0163.jpg (131314 bytes)17:42 View from the temple of St Donan across E Loch Roag. 

050723PICT0164.jpg (84274 bytes)17:4View from the temple of St. Donan across the sands and E Loch Roag towards Carloway. We camped well away from the graveyard but we both had a very disturbed night. Perhaps we were camped above the remains of a tortured soul who had been buried in unconsecrated grounds?

050723PICT0173.jpg (117604 bytes)19:57 There is a herd of very wild Highland cattle on Bearnaraigh Beag. Apparently once they are moved to the mainland, they need rounding up with a fork lift truck! I am not sure how they get the beasts across to the mainland as we could see no trace of any fork lift trucks on Little Bernera. Perhaps they are tempted to swim to Great Bernera, by some means or another. Perhaps a local had enjoyed entertaining simple city folk. Whatever, we kept well clear.

050723PICT0176.jpg (119315 bytes)20:01 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0177_188.jpg (220133 bytes)20:02 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0184.jpg (91956 bytes)20:06 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0186.jpg (87152 bytes)20:08 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0187.jpg (116920 bytes)20:09 Traigh Mhor. This shell sand beach has a hint of pink to it (unlike others nearby that are dazzlingly white). These shells ancestors may have been responsible.

050723PICT0188.jpg (186460 bytes)20:11 Lewisian gneiss.

050723PICT0191.jpg (106642 bytes)20:13 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0195.jpg (104338 bytes)20:26 Traigh Mhor.

050723PICT0200.jpg (111890 bytes)20:33 Traigh Mhor machair. In the centre of the island, there are fertile hollows that used to grow barley/

050723PICT0204.jpg (77121 bytes)20:36 The Flannan Isles 41 kilometres to the WNW of Little Bernera.

050723PICT0206.jpg (68172 bytes)20:52 Looking SW from Little Bernera up W Loch Roag over Traigh na Beirigh to the shoulder of Suaineabhal 429m,  Tahabhal 515m,   Cracabhal 514m (in sun) and  Mealaisbhal 574m.

050723PICT0208.jpg (94511 bytes)21:04 looking NW from the west coast of Little Bernera to Bearasay and Old Hill.(Seana Chnoc)

Day 4: 24/07/05: 12.6km

Conditions on the day: Wind NE force 4 HW: 09:58 3.94m   LW: 15:41 0.71m HW: 22:09 4.32m

050724PICT0214.jpg (79873 bytes)07:18 Early morning on the temple sands.

050724PICT0215.jpg (103976 bytes)09:04 Temple sands.

050724DSC00290.jpg (80869 bytes)09:54 Amazing green water in temple bay.

050724DSC00291.jpg (79682 bytes)09:54 The temple of St. Donan above the bay. Most of the inside of the little church is taken up by a large tomb with a large dark marble cross above it.

050724DSC00293.jpg (77375 bytes)09:57 High spirits, setting off on a great adventure...

050724DSC00296.jpg (86692 bytes)10:00 Encountering heavy swell off the coast of Little Bernera.

050724DSC00302.jpg (72732 bytes)10:04 This looks like it was taken from the deck of a boat, looking down, but it was just the crest of a wave.

050724DSC00310.jpg (99965 bytes)10:06 Breaking through the reefs to reach the Atlantic.

050724DSC00312.jpg (73820 bytes)10:09 The Atlantic.... there are no photos for a while. 

We went out through the channel between  Cealasaigh (Kealasay) and Campaigh (Campay). We then headed west undecided whether to head NW out to Old Hill or SE into Camas Bostadh. I am afraid the appearance of dark squalls and crashing surf on the dark rocks of Old Hill psyched us out and we ran for the shelter of Bosta!

050724DSC00317.jpg (86546 bytes)10:36 Running back in with following seas towards Bosta at the NW end of Great Bernara. In the troughs even the tops of mountains and our paddle tips (at the top of their strokes) disappeared from view.

050724DSC00320.jpg (71809 bytes)10:37 Gallan Head, (in the distance) behind Flodaigh (Flodday).

Another gap in the photos......

050724DSC00324.jpg (95728 bytes)10:52 Welcome shelter of the reefs of Bosta.

050724DSC00325.jpg (95349 bytes)10:52

050724DSC00326.jpg (84576 bytes)10:53 Camas Bostadh.

050724DSC00327.jpg (84153 bytes)10:53

050724DSC00330.jpg (60016 bytes)11:00 We met the local dentist who was visiting with his family. He is a member of Stornoway Canoe Club.

050724PICT0216.jpg (85651 bytes)11:07 Bosta

050724PICT0218.jpg (81480 bytes)11:08 Bosta

050724PICT0224.jpg (78654 bytes)11:09 Bosta

050724PICT0226.jpg (131321 bytes)11:10 Bosta

050724PICT0230.jpg (72600 bytes)11:20 Bosta

050924IMGP0189nicoll.jpg (60911 bytes)11:40 Bosta
Photo Billy Nicol

050724PICT0231.jpg (122917 bytes)11:49 The recreated Iron Age house in the dunes behind Bosta beach.

050724PICT0249.jpg (78071 bytes)12:12 Bosta from the west.

050724DSC00331.jpg (76777 bytes)12:55 Caolas Cumhang between Great Bernara and Little Bernara, the ebb was running like a river to the west.

050724PICT0264.jpg (102205 bytes)13:26 We then had a very interesting crossing to Flodday. I misjudged the strength of the tide and NE wind and had to paddle like hell to clear the skerrys to the SE of Flodday.

050724PICT0269.jpg (69440 bytes)13:34 Looking to Old Hill behind  Bearasay from Flodday.

050724PICT0273.jpg (96489 bytes)13:43 A field of ragged robin on Flodday.

050724PICT0278.jpg (60035 bytes)13:55 looking south up West Loch Roag between rain squalls.

050724PICT0287.jpg (34658 bytes)14:22 The view closes in. We waited till the worst of the squalls had passed until we set off for Pabbay Mor.

There are no photographs of this crossing......

050724DSC00340.jpg (59279 bytes)15:26 After another "interesting" crossing from Flodday back to Pabbay Mor. It was low tide and the surf was breaking very heavily at the E entrance of the lagoon of Kyles Pabbay Beg. We decided to return to the easier landing of our first camp.

050724DSC00342.jpg (79135 bytes)15:50 Traigh na Cille.

050724PICT0292_93.jpg (100292 bytes)19:39 Traigh na Cille, Pabbay Mor.

050724PICT0294.jpg (87500 bytes)19:41 Kidney vetch.

050724PICT0295.jpg (59356 bytes)20:08 Eyebright.

050724PICT0297.jpg (90670 bytes)20:14 This flower was growing in a damp patch in a rocky hollow, about 50 metres above and about 150m from the sea on Pabbay Mor. Can anyone help? Thanks to Andrew from Hampshire who has identified it as bog pimpernel.

Day 5: 25/07/05: 2.2km

Conditions on the day: Wind N force 4 HW: 10:43 3.84m  

050725DSC00343.jpg (84509 bytes)10:20 Leaving Pabbaigh Mor for Bhaltos.

050725PICT0308.jpg (77678 bytes)11:12 Callanish stones

050725PICT0315.jpg (78211 bytes)11:16 Callanish stones

050725PICT0316.jpg (88469 bytes)11:20 This flower was growing amongst the Callanish stones. Not sure what it is, possibly a garden escape, can anyone help? Within 24 hours, Emyr has identified it as fox and cubs, a member of the daisy family. Thanks Emyr!

050725PICT0317.jpg (141494 bytes)12.22 A stop at Callanish Blackhouse tearoom for soup and jam scones. 

050725PICT0321.jpg (73680 bytes)14:27 We then left Lewis and drove south and west to Huisinis Bay in Harris.

050725PICT0327.jpg (80920 bytes)14:39 View north over Caolas an Scarp.

050725IMGP0213.jpg (181940 bytes)The jetty at North Huisinis.
Photo Billy Nicol.

050725PICT0336.jpg (117038 bytes)15:04 Machair and jetty at North Huisinis.

050725PICT0337.jpg (107871 bytes)15:05 Common spotted orchid.

050725PICT0338.jpg (53028 bytes)15:20 South over the Gloraig Huisinis rocks to Ceapabhal 365m and Toe head from Huisinis Bay in Harris.

050725PICT0339.jpg (47900 bytes)15:20 Huisinis Bay, Harris.

We then drove south to Traigh Niosaboist on the Sound of Taransay and paddled over to another campsite on Taransay. This 2nd trip: the Scottish Sea Kayaking Photo Gallery Hebridean Symphony, Second Movement, July 2005 can be found here.

 

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